Thursday, December 20, 2007

Guatemala to Nicaragua

It's been a month since I last wrote so I'm sorry, it's a long one. If you get bored of reading just check out the pics.
We ended up spending 6 days in beautiful Antigua. It was an awesome little town with tons of great restaurants and bars in a valley surrounded by volcanoes. Volcanoes are fricken cool. On our last night, Hartt and I decided to go to a Cuban restaurant that we knew nothing about and didn't understand anything on the traditional Cuban menu. We ended up just pointing to two random things and when they came out we were quickly disappointed with our selections. We were served two dishes of some kind of vegetable (to this day I still don't know what it was). So we immediately axed the veggies and went to the nearest dessert shop for an all-cake dinner. We rule.

While exploring the town one day, we met a cool British guy who had been living there for 5 years and did motorcycle tours in and around the area. We were headed north to a town named Coban. He told us about a cool back road to get there. On all of our travels so far we've been warned about banditos and this was no exception. So we were a little nervous about taking back roads but it turned out to be one of the coolest drives yet. When we arrived in Coban we were starving. So before we even changed out of our moto gear we sat down at a fancy restaurant. It was sweet. We were covered head to toe in dirt and we had waiters with bow ties tying bibs on us so we wouldn't spill anything on our clothes.

The main reason we went to Coban was to do a sweet jungle hike to some incredible natural calcium pools. The hike itself was hot, uber steep, and tiring. But it was totally worth it. A river flows out of the mountains and for a section roughly 300 meters long, dives into the earth and rushes underground, leaving the excess runoff from the sides of the valley to pool and form calcium deposits. We spent the day hiking around, swimming in the several pools, and climbing down into the exit of the underground cavern. The water rushes so furiously through here, it would be a miracle if you fell in at the top and lived through the ride. There have been several people that have perished from falling in. None of us fell in so it was a really cool afternoon. After leaving the pools we drove to another cave. It was massive, so massive that there are kilometers of passages that are still unexplored. So, hoping to be the first to explore a new part of the cave and discover some new cave monster, we brought in a bottle of rum for courage. After a few drinks I thought I had found a cave monster, but quickly realized it was just the girl in our group that looked like a transvestite.
After one more night of fancy desserts at the bow tie restaurant, we got an early start heading toward El Salvador. We didn't make it all the way to the border and had to post up for the night so I could get electrocuted in the shower. Seriously. Look at this thing.

The next morning we were back on the road by 7am. The border crossing into El Salvador was a walk in the park compared to the Mexico/Guatemala crossing. It was still a lengthy process but at least there weren't dozens of people grabbing and pulling at us. We had a super helpful deaf boy help us through the many steps and we tipped him 18 dollars (most people in the country make about 7 dollars a day).
After spending one night in Santa Ana to get our bearings, we drove down to the coast in search of a tiny little surf spot I had heard about named El Zonte. It turned out to be an awesome little area with 2 main little guesthouses which had restaurants attached. We spent our days surfing, drinking beers by the pool, trying to catch parrots and avoiding the dog with the biggest nipples I have ever seen.

After nearly a week of fun, chill times, it was time to make the trek north to Honduras. We would have stayed longer but surprisingly enough, we are on a somewhat tight schedule to make it to Panama city for New Year's.

Getting into Honduras was the biggest pain in the ass yet. We crossed at one of the more remote crossings and were met by officials who were definitely less than informed as how to go about importing a motorcycle owned by a foreigner. The whole process took nearly 3 hours, was the most expensive, and put us way behind schedule. The next morning we got up hella early again. We had some serious miles to cover to get to the north coast in time to catch a ferry to an island famous for scuba diving named Utila. After driving almost 400km's through winding roads, searching and finding a place to securely park the bikes, going to 4 banks because 3 were out of service, and taking a 20 minute taxi ride, we made it to the ferry dock with literally 45 seconds to spare. We hopped on and the boat pulled away.

Utila was pretty cool. Hartt and I were already certified so we just went out fun diving while Laine did his Open Water course. It's funny. Diving is cool if you take it for what it is. If you are in a place that has tons of cool sea life or shipwrecks, or swim-through coral formations, it can be really cool. But none of those were here. We were a little disappointed. All the other scuba dorks we were with were getting excited about seeing gay little fish and lame coral. While everyone was looking for the Mexican Staring Fish of Southern Sri Lanka, Hartt and I were just taking pictures and videos of each other doing stupid shit. We were just stoked to be breathing underwater. We did see a turtle on one of the dives though. That was cool. And guess what our guide's name was? Steve. Yes that's right. Scuba Steve.

In the center of the island was an amazing bar called Treetanic. Some dude made this enormous tree house bar with bridges, walkways, monuments... all done in mosaic fashion. It was really neat.

Five days after arriving, we took the ferry back to the mainland. It was a sweet ride back with the mountains looming in the distance. Next on the agenda: hopping on a badass army truck to take us out to the jungle for a day of river trekking and rafting. It was sweet. We climbed and jumped off cliffs, and swam and floated our way up and down the river. Then we hopped in our rafts and ran the class 4 river. That night we stayed out at the jungle lodge they had built and ended up drinking some seriously crazy jungle fire water. And more than usual, I wanted to die in the morning. But instead of getting to ride out my death hangover in bed, we had to get up and drive 400km toward the Nicaraguan border.
After 2 full days of driving and one border crossing, we made it to Granada where Laine had a friend from home running a guesthouse. We had a fun reunion with Shamus and drove straight out to his hostel's sister guesthouse, which was out at a laguna on an extinct volcano 20 minutes outside of town. The place was awesome. It had some of the clearest water I have ever seen. We met up with some random British dude who was like the Crocodile Hunter (when he was alive). We named him snake guy. So Laine and Shamus went out with snake guy and they caught snakes and tarantulas. It was pretty crazy to think that these creatures were all around us. One night after drinking rum and catching snakes, Laine came home and forgot that the water at the end of the dock was only 4ft deep. He decided to dive off the end. Luckily his face and shoulder stopped the rest of his body from getting really hurt.
On the second to last night we were there, a group had rented out the entire lodge and were throwing a big party. They had decks and I ended up Djing all night. Two days later we packed up our stuff and said our goodbyes to both Shamus and Laine (thanks for everything Shamus)(Laine is going back to Canada to work for a couple of months). At the party we met a couple named Diego and Paloma who own a surf guesthouse on the coast near Popoyo beach about 2 hours away. So Hartt and I left for the coast to go surfing for a week. The road there was almost not a road... more of a muddy goat's trail with 2 river crossings which were almost up to our gas tanks (2 feet deep). It was pretty sketchy but we made it and as we arrived at Diego and Paloma's, the most random thing I could have imagined happened. This place is seriously in the middle of nowhere and staying at the same place were my friends Chili and Andrea from Whistler. I didn't even know they were traveling in Nicaragua and we end up staying at the same spot in the middle of nowhere. It was great to see them. We hung out with them for 2 nights and then they had to go back to Whistler. Chili decided to buy some property nearby. It really is an incredible area. It's remote, cheap, and has amazing waves. And the food at Diego and Paloma's place, Torosurf, is awesome. So this is where I am now. We came for a week but are going to end up spending 2. I had to drive for over an hour to the nearest town with internet to type this entry.

(It's now 5 days later. On my way back from my internet adventure, I had my first smash on the bike. As I said the roads were barely roads. I wasn't paying as much attention as I should have been. I was swerving between some mud holes and some guys on bicycles and my back end washed out. The bike spun sideways, wheels dug in, and sent me flying. I was only going about 40kph but it still sent me for a good ride. I still have a sore wrist, sore ankle, and a few scrapes and bruises, but all and all I'm fine. Hopefully that's my one crash for the trip.)